Saturday , October 17 , 2009

ETHNIC EDGE

MOM NOT AT HOME? A DO-IT-YOURSELF GUIDE TO WEARING A DHOTI WITHOUT PARENTAL ASSISTANCE

Want to compete with your sari-clad girlfriend or wife for elegance and attention? Dump those work-day trousers, and the easy-to-wear churidars for a dhoti this season. “It’s a very classy garment. Just as a sari transforms a woman, making her look different and more elegant, so does the dhoti for a man. I think every man should wear a dhoti on special occasions,” says Sharbari Datta, designer. Here’s how:

Step 1. Separate the dhoti into two unequal parts — roughly, three-fourths and one-fourth. The longer part should be to your left
Step 2. Wrap the dhoti around you so that you can bring the two sides together in front to tie a knot just below the waist
Step 4. Take the part on your right, gather it, pull it between your legs and tuck it at the back
Step 5: Pleat the remaining length of the dhoti much like you would pleat a sari, tuck it into the waistband and let the bottom part hang.

While this is the most basic way of wearing a dhoti, it too can be draped in different ways. The pleats on the left  can be tucked into the pocket or held in the hand. “The most difficult part is identifying the border and which side goes up. If you buy a new dhoti from the market it is usually pleated and thus easier to understand,” explains Sandy, stylist. The para dhobi can also be asked to iron it in a way that makes it easier to pleat.

“Another way of wearing the dhoti is by drawing the left side also from between your legs and tucking it at the back. This is a more rustic way of wearing it, but it does look cool. And it’s easier to carry as well,” suggests Datta. The traditional Bengali look is the “dhakka paar” or broad-bordered, cotton dhoti in beige. But Sandy suggests a silk dhoti for a slim and uber cool look. Other kinds of dhotis are also in vogue. “I get a lot of buyers for the narrow-bordered, coloured, south Indian dhotis,” says Datta. For coloured dhotis, black and rich maroon are the two colours most in demand. Sandy also votes for a shibori-dyed dhoti for a trendy look. Or go for a tissue dhoti for a dressy look.

On the subject of what to wear with your dhoti, nothing works better than a “dhuti-panjabi” for the Bangali babu during festive times. But if you want to try out something different, go for an angarkha, a la Shah Rukh Khan in Paheli, suggests Datta. Or wear a short achkan with your dhoti. “For that, though, you’ll have to wear a silk dhoti, so that it doesn’t look voluminous,” explains Sandy. Complete the look with a mul chador, draped casually over your arm. A brocade bordered chador will lend a designer touch to the outfit.

Keep the shoes traditional — mojris or leather sandals. But no flip-flops, or floaters please! Not even if it rains.

“Wear your dhoti with confidence. If you look uneasy or nervous wearing it, you’ll spoil the look,” cautions Datta.

P.S. If you are still not confident, try tying a belt over the dhoti and covering it with your kurta. Or pick up a pre-stitched dhoti.

Web Link : http://www.telegraphindia.com/1091017/jsp/entertainment/story_11624143.jsp

September 1996
Her work is a celebration of the male ego. Pampering their sartorial desires, Sharbari Datta has redefined the concept of male attire.
Asperhaps the city's and the country's first male couturier, her designs, both ethnic and chic, blend the classical with the modern, the romantic with the real, fusing fantasy with fine art.
...She does not like being called a fashion designer abhorring stereotypes of any sort. But what Sharbari creates, becomes fashion, thanks to her wearers. As the big time beckons her, one wonders whether Sharbari will preserve her exclusivity or make a splash in the effervescent world of designer fashion.